Is this an Alternator Problem?

August 25th, 2009

“I have installed a High Output Alternator and my car does the same thing” or “Is this High Output Alternator I purchased from Maniac Electric Motors causing ….[this problem or that problem]….”

We are often asked about problems that are or are not related to the charging system.  We are posting the correspondence about these to assist others in search for the cause of their automotive issues.

nickcomvdub emails about concerns with the High Output Alternator for his Mitsubishi Lancer

nickcomvdub hi i purchased an alternator and put it in and when the engine is idling the lights are dim but when i hit the gas a little bit ny lights get real bright can you help me trouble shoot or do you have an answer to my problem? does it have anything to do with the pully, the one on the car is smaller then the one that is on the alternator i had got from you?

Christian Vazquez Do you have what the actual voltage is? If there was a smaller pulley on the original alternator then it needed to be switched previous to installation, that could have something to do with it. A weaker or cycled battery puts a tremendous load on the alternator and at idle speeds the effects would be more predominate.

nickcomvdub i just changed the pully, and im still having problems, when the car is idling it wants to die and the rpms flucuate up and down. also the lights get brighter when i hit the gas only when i rev it up not when im driving. do i have to get my computer reset or you know i have a value craft crapy cheep battery what do you think?

nickcomvdub i had sent you a message before,my rpms go up and down only when im in park, not in drive or reverse or while im driving it runs fine and it dont go up and down. is that from the battery which is a value craft cheep battery? a did order a optima red top battery and should get it monday or tuesday. have you heard of this problems before?

Christian Vazquez That is very strange. If it only happens in park and not while idling in drive. sounds like an electrical problem. I would definately put the best quality battery that you can in. A weak or poor battery is a huge load on the alternator. But while your transmission is in park some wire or component is causing a problem.

If you have a warranty claim on your alternator we will ship you a replacement along with a return service label for the defective one.

That is very epensive on our end and would like you to verify the problem before making a claim.

Thank You,

Christian

christian@maniacelectricmotors.com

nickcomvdub have you heard of this problem before? i didnt change my battery yet i should get it today or tomorrow, its a optima red top like you told me to get, have you seen or had problems like this with other customers? it seems to be good when i got the music up loud my lights dont dim anymore so it seems to be working, it deffenently idles higher than normal in drive but doesnt jump up and down. i dont know, im thinking it could be my battery, although i just got it like 6 mionth ago, or the alternator could be defective or is it something to do with the atlernator being an high output that i need to reset or set the computer by pluging one of those things in the computer in my car??????

Christian Vazquez No need to reset the computer because of the alternator. Our HO Alternators are more efficient, even at idle. I suspect some scenario like this… When your transmission is in the parked position, some wire on some circuit is barely shorting to another or barely grounding. This kind of draw in power will cause your issue. I have heard of problems during right hand turns, and during braking, etc. All due to pinched, shorted wires in circuits caused by motor/transmission position. Maybe even a malfunctioned transmission solenoid could be the culprit. With electrical problems ‘the sky is the limit’ You will definately need to find and fix the problem because ongoing heavy draws will over-draw and “burn-up” the alternator. Start by fully inspecting your power & ground wires. Hopefully it is somewhere obvious. It does not sound like an alternator problem at all.

Christian Vazquez Another thought. If you have done any engine compartment work previous to these symptoms, Retrace that work first. That would be the likely area for concern.

nickcomvdub could it be the battery that i have in there causing the problem? i will be puting in a optima red top?

Christian Vazquez possibly

nickcomvdub hi again i want to appoligize for all the confution, i had broke a hose that goes to my air intake and replaced it and know its fine sorry for the mishalf and all the emails, the alternator works fine. thank you

Christian Vazquez Great. Thanks for the update. That is good that it was something simple! Sometimes these problems are a nightmare.

nickcomvdub no thank you for being so under standing with all the help i received, thanks agian

Feedback / Ratings / Reviews on Maniac Motors Purchase

August 2nd, 2009

Here is a new area where feedback on purchases can be posted in one area. Please post links to Item purchased with your review. Please be fair. If you have had a problem with a purchase and haven’t contacted us for help, please do so first. View our 100% customer satisfaction ratings through Ebay also: EBAY RATINGS I am sure you will be happy with our service. 972-557-5768. Thank You!

Monitor Your Voltage

April 30th, 2009

Alternators are definitely not made 100% efficient from the factory. They are just made and mass produced to maintain the battery for whatever series of car it was designed. For today’s vehicles High Output Alternators are usually engineered within the original case making the alternator closer to 100% efficient. And if done correctly can even make the vehicle more fuel efficient. A more efficient alternator is less drag on the motor. Before computer controlled emission systems High Output Alternators were commonly larger case modified domestic units that performed great because it easily interfaced with the basic electrical system of older cars. Today regulator circuits are either controlled and/or monitored by the vehicle’s computer. High Output Alternators are needed to be engineered within original manufacturers regulator circuit function. The best way to do this is to modify the original alternator. An alternator that is more efficient with more current (amperage) capabilities does not harm the computer. Following is an email exchange from Ivan & Hugo, Caracas-Venezuela :

Question: Hi, the HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR YUKON TAHOE TRUCKS VANS SUBURBAN AVALANCHE ESCALADE HUMMER RAINER SAAB 9-7X TRAILBLAZER ENVOY, part number Item# 8302HO250 is the same size of original factory default alternator of my Trail Blazer or is more big?

Answer: If your Trailblazer is 2007 to 2009 5.3l Model it is the exact same case size with all modifications done internally. It will bolt up and plug in exactly as the original.

Question: What warranty do we have about the real amperage output for this alternator? We just bought one from USA, it was sold as a 300A alternator, as you said it has the same case, it bolt up and plug in exactly like the original, but it operates like the same OEM. In our opinion it is a normal replacement of the OEM., The stator and wires are the same, and maybe the regulator too. In order to manage more output current, these components should be bigger than the original, it sounds logical. Is it not ? It is supplying an stereo equipment with about 5000 RMS Watts, with 5 optima yellow top batteries plus the normal electric system of the truck. When this stereo is in high volume, and the engine is running, the voltage goes down exactly like the OEM when it should keep the voltage up a little bit more, so that the amplifiers operate better, and the batteries charge faster. Please if you can provide us with more information about this, we will appreciate it in order to buy from you this new alternator. We want it to operate well.

Answer: There are many in this industry that misrepresent their performance alternators, it is very unfortunate and makes it difficult for us all. At 300 Amps within this case it would perform worse than the original. That is assuming they rate their alternator at normal driving conditions, not a 6000 RPM output! Going beyond 100% efficiency causes poor outcome.

The output is easy to verify by testing the vehicle at different RPMs with a ‘loaded-up’ electrical system using an ammeter. An alternator that has more capabilities should be able to keep the voltage at the set-point better than original. When the voltage drops it could be an indicator that the alternator is not keeping up with the loads. It also could be poor installs, bad grounds, improper cable size, or failing components (Or low charge on any of the 5 batteries!).

A 5000 watt system is very large and with any performance alternator will need to be monitored at lower RPM when the alternator is more limited. If you can monitor the voltage on the dash and you see 13.2V or lower at idle you need to turn things down, before the alternator, battery -ies, or amps are damaged.

“Check Your Battery” Often Says the Rebuilder

April 20th, 2009

Hello All, for my very first entry, I will post an almost cliche question in our industry. ‘Did you check your battery?’ This always gets the answer ‘Yes’ or ‘The battery is new’. But many times the battery is not checked, because the vehicle may not have ever failed to start or someone just knows that the problem is elsewhere. Here is an example of what a difference a weak battery can make.

Thanks to John Hoffman for the results:

In 2001 with 42,000 miles on the car:

The only upgrade to the vehicle for these results are : Optima “red top” battery 34-980 with 1000CA, 800CA, Reserve: 100, 4 gauge wire upgrade.” (60A inline fuse added later) – “Big 3″
(Still has the Stock Alternator)

Start-up voltage in the morning, cold engine: 14.5 volts
Normal highway speeds, stereo on, no A/C: 14.1 volts
Normal highway speeds, high electrical load (high and low beams, stereo, rear defroster, air conditioning): 13.8 volts
700 rpm idle, no load: 13.9 volts
700 rpm idle, high electrical load: 13.3 volts.

My last test was turn on everything that could possibly be turned on. This full load included everything mentioned above plus hazard flashers, cruise control, room and map lights, heated mirrors, and front and rear wipers.
At highway speeds, voltage was 13.5 volts At 750 rpm idle: 12.2 volts.

In 2008 with 110,000 miles on the car:

Start-up voltage in the morning, cold engine: 14.3 volts
Normal highway speeds, stereo on, no A/C: 13.4 volts
Normal highway speeds, high electrical load (high and low beams, stereo, rear defroster, air conditioning): 13.2 volts
750 rpm idle, no load: 12.4 volts

The last test was turn on everything that could possibly be turned on. This full load included everything mentioned above plus hazard flashers, cruise control, room and map lights, heated mirrors, and front and rear wipers.

At highway speeds, voltage was 12.9 volts At 750 rpm idle: 11.5-12.3 volts.

On March 24, 2009, after the High-Output alternator installation and the new 4 gauge wiring upgrade, things were a little better, but not as much as I had hoped.

Start-up voltage, cold engine: 14.3 volts
Normal highway speeds, stereo on, no A/C: 13.5-13.8 volts
Normal highway speeds, high electrical load (high and low beams, stereo, rear defroster, air conditioning): 13.3 volts
750 rpm idle, no load: 12.6 volts
750rpm idle, high load: 11.5-11.8V

John had not experienced any problems with his battery, that he knew of. But it was a weak battery causing the these unsatifactory readings. After replacing the battery…

Start-up voltage after battery install, warm engine: 14.5 volts
Normal highway speeds, stereo on, no A/C: -13.9 volts
Normal highway speeds, high electrical load (high and low beams, stereo, rear defroster, air conditioning): 13.8 volts
750 rpm idle, no load: 13.6 volts
750rpm idle, high load: 13.4 volts

Testing your charging system with a weak battery causes poor results. All testing on charging and starting system require a good and fully charged battery.

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April 15th, 2009

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